Climbing passages

 

 

Rocks
•Before 1972: Brzuchata Turnia, Rzędkowickie rocks, Mały Okiennik, the north summit: first classic passage (lead climbing), the so called ”Rysy Momatiuka”, north-east face (with A. Bara).

 

•Before 1972: Turnia Lechwora, Rzędkowickie Rocks, Mały Okiennik, north summit: first classic route, the right edge of the south -east face (with Z. Wach).

 

•Before 1972: Turnia Lechwora, Rzędkowickie Rock, Mały Okiennik, south summit.: a variant towards G. Chwoła’s route, the right side of the south-east face (with P. Skorupa).

 

•Before 1972: Turnia Kaczor, Podzamcze, the middle part of the west face: a new route (with P. Skorupa).

 

•Before 1972: Zegarowe Rocks, Smoleń, a corner on the right side of the plate in the middle of the highest crag’s face : a new route, so called “Kukuczka’s corner".

 

•10 IX 1972: Mały Mur, Rzędkowickie Rocks, the middle (crack) of south face of Turnia 2: a new route.

 

•10 IX 1972: Mały Mur, Rzędkowickie Rocks, traverse of the south-east face of Turnia 3: a new route (with J. Skorek).

 

•10 IX 1972: Mały Mur, Rzędkowickie Rocks, the right side of the south face of Turnia 5: a new route (with J. Skorek).

 

•1974: Brzuchata Turnia, Rzędkowickie Rocks, Mały Okiennik, the north summit, the right edge and the middle of the north-east face: a new route.

 

•1975: Turnia Kukuczki, Mirów, Szósta Grzęda, the right crack of the east face: a new route, so called “Kukuczka’s Crack".

 

•1977: Mysia Skała, Góra Zborów, the right edge of the east face: a new route.

 

•VI 1977: Grupa z Wielbłądem, Góra Zborów, with a left buttress of the west face of Rock 3: a new route.

 

•VI 1977: Wielki Blok, Góra Zborów, diagonally across the south face: a new route.

 


The Tatra mountains
•20 II 1971: Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Pośredni: first winter passage of J. Łącki’s and M. Włodek’s variant, the so called “Mushroom", the middle part of the front face, left buttress of the north-east face (with Danuta Gellner-Wach, J. Skorek and Z. Wach).

 

•24-26 III 1971: Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka: an attempt of first winter direttissima of the north-east face (with A .Bara and P. Skorupa).

 

•16-18 IV 1971: Mały Młynarz: first winter passage of ”Kurtykówka", the right buttress of the north-east face of the main summit (with J. Kalla and Z. Wach).

 

•1971 Cubrynka: first winter passage of K. Liszka’s, J. Porębski’s and A. Skłodowski’s route, the right buttress of the north-west face ( with J. Kalla, J. Skorek and Z. Wach).

 

•3-6 I 1972: Mały Młynarz: first winter direttissima of north – east face of the main summit (with T. Gibiński and Z. Wach).

 

•22 VII 1971: Wołowa Turnia: first winter passage, second one in the history of „The Spiders’ Route", the middle of the north face (with M. Piekutowski and J. Skorek).

 

•8-11 II 1972: Młynarczyk: first winter passage of ”Biederman’s Route", the middle of the east face (with J. Kalla, J. Kiełkowski and J. Skorek).

 

•VI 1972: Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka: first passage of ”The Spiders’ Route” made in one day, the middles of the north-east face (with Z. Wach).

 

•23-24 VI 1972: Mary Młynarz: a new route, a chimney of the north-east face, the so called: “Great Chimney" (with Irena Gellner, J. Skorek and Z. Wach).

 

•8 VII 1972: Cubrynka: second passage — with his own variant — of M. Łukaszewski’s and Z. Wach’s route, the left side of the north-west face (with P. Czok).

 

•8 II 1977: Mały Durny Szczyt: a new route, north buttress (with A. Machnik).

 


Rila (Bulgaria)

 

•2 VIII 1971: Maliowica: first Polish passage, second one in the history direttissima of the north face (with K. Baraniok).
•4 VIII 1971: Diabelskie Igły (Diawolskite Igli): first Polish passage of ”Sliwien" route (with K. Baraniok).
•5 VIII 1971: - Sredni Kupen: first Polish passage, second one in the history of “WIF" route (with M. Kulig).

 

•11 VIII 1971: - Zlijat Zyb: first Polish passage, second one in the history superdirettissima of the south- east face (with K. Baraniok).

 

•15 VIII 1971: Diabelskie Igły (Diawolskite Igli): a new route, so called ”Katowice" route. (solo).

 


The Dolomites

 

•23-26 VII 1972: Torre Trieste: a new route, the middle of the south face, called by the Italian as ‘’Direttissima delii Polacci" (with J. Kalla, T. Łaukajtys and Z. Wach).

 

•4-5 VIII 1972: Cima del Bancon: a new route, the south –east buttress (with T. Łaukajtys and Z. Wach).

 

•7 VIII 1972 : Punta Civetta: repeat passage of “Aste - Susati" route, the north-west face (with Z. Wach).

 

•6-23 III 1973: Marmolada d'Ombretta: first winter passage, fourth in the history of ”Via deli Idealle" route, the middle of the south face (with M. Piekutowski, J. Skorek and Z. Wach).

 

 

The Western Alps

 

•19 VII 1973: Aiguille du Moine: first Polish passage of “Aureille-Fentren" route, the east face (with M. Łukaszewski).

 

•22 VII 1973: La Peli, Vercors range: first Polish passage of “Parisian" route, the south face (with M. Łukaszewski).

 

•30 VII 1973: Tête Sud du Replat, Ecrins range: first Polish passage, the left side of the south face (with M. Łukaszewski).

 

•6 VIII 1973: Mont Blanc: first Polish passage of ”Major" route, the east face (with M. Łukaszewski, B. Kozłowska and J. Kurczab).

 

•12-14 VIII 1973: Petit Dru: a new route, left side of the north face (with M. Łukaszewski and W. Kurtyka).

 

•3-4 VIII 1975: Grandes Jorasses: a new route, the north face of Pointe Hélène (with M. Łukaszewski and W. Kurtyka).

ALASKA

 

•20-26 VII 1974: Mount Mckinley, 6198 m: the west ridge of the south face (with J. Baranek, A. Bilczewski, H. Furmanik, J. Kalla and A. Zyzak).

 

 

The HINDU KUSH

 

•1 VIII 1976: Kohe Awal, 5800 m: a new route, the middle of the south face (solo).

 

•10-11 VIII 1976: Kohe Tez, 7015 m: the south-east side (with J. Baranek, S. Cho - 1976 with H. Natkaniec).

 

•9 VIII 1978: Tirich Mir East, 7692 m: a new route, the east ridge (with T. Piotrowski and M. Wroczyński).

 

•2 VIII 1978: Bindu Ghul Zom, 6340 m: first ascent of the summit, the western ridge while descending the summit of Tirich Mir East (with T. Piotrowski and M. Wroczyński).

 

 

The Southern Alps (New Zealand)

 

•19 II 1981: Malte Brun, 3176 m: a new route, the middle of the south face (with L. Musioł and R. Warecki).

 

•20 II 1981: Malte Brun, 3176 m: a new route, the right side of the west face (with L. Musioł and R. Warecki).

 

•27 II 1981: Mount Hicks ridge, 3183 m — Mount Dampier, 3440 m (with R. Pawłowski and K. Wielicki).

 


The Himalayas and the Karakorum

 

•autumn 1977: Nanga Parbat, 8125 m: an attempt to climb the south-east face; achieved altitude: approx. 7950 m — with M. Piekutowski and M. Pronobis. (Expedition of the High Mountain Club from Katowice; leader: A. Zyzak).

 

•4 X 1979: Lhotse, 8511 m: classic route, the west face — with A. Czok, J. Skorek and A. Heinrich. (Expedition of the High Mountain Club from Gliwice; leader: A. Bilczewski.)

 

•19 V 1980: Mount Everest, 8848 m: a new route, the south buttress — with A. Czok. (The Polish National Expedition; leader: A. Zawada).

 

•Jesień 1981: Makalu, 8463 m: and attempt to lead a new route, the right side of the western face; achieved altitude of approx.8000 m — with A. Mclntyre and W. Kurtyka.

 

•15 X 1981: Makalu, 8463 m: a new route, the south –east ridge and the north-west ridge, solo, Alpine style. (International expedition; leader: W. Kurtyka.)

 

•30 VII 1982: Broad Peak (Falchan Kangri), 8047 m: classic route, west face and the north ridge, Alpine style — with W. Kurtyka.

 

•VII 1982: K-2 (Chogori), 8611 m: an attempt to ascent with a new route, south face; achieved altitude of approx. 7400 m — with W. Kurtyka.

 

•23-24 VI 1983: Gasherbrum II East, 7772 m: first ascent of the summit with the east ridge, Alpine style — with W. Kurtyka.

 

•29 VI, 1 VII 1983: Gasherbrum II, 8035 m: a new route, south – east ridge, Alpine style — with W. Kurtyka. (a two-person expedition; leader: W. Kurtyka).

 

•19-23 VII 1983: Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak), 8068 m: a new route, south – west face, Alpine style — with W. Kurtyka. (a two-person expedition; leader: W. Kurtyka).

 

•15-17 VII 1984: Broad Peak (Falchan Kangri), 8047 m: a new route, traverse of the summits – the northern summit 7700 m and the middle summit 8016 m, Alpine style — with W. Kurtyka.

 

•VII 1984: Biarchedi, 6781 m: first ascent of the summit (on the way back from the expedition to Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV, on the way to Masherbrum La pass), solo, Alpine style.

 

•21 I 1985: Dhaulagiri, 8167 m: first winter ascent, classic route, from the north — with A. Czok (Expedition of the High Mountain Club from Gliwice; leader: A. Bilczewski.)

 

•13 II 1985: Cho Oyu, 8153 m: first winter ascent (as a second team after M. Pawlikowski and M. Berbeka, 12 II), a new route, the south –east buttress — with A. Heinrich (Polish-Canadian Expedition; leader: A. Zawada).

 

•13 VII 1985: Nanga Parbat, 8125 m: a new route, the south –east buttress — with C. Carsolio, A. Heinrich and S. Łobodziński (Expedition of the High Mountain Club from Cracow; leader: P. Mularz).

 

•IX, X 1985: Lhotse, 8511 m: an attempt to make a new route, south face; achieved altitude of 8150 m. (High Mountain Club in Katowice; leader J. Majer).

 

•11 I 1986: Kanchenjunga, 8598 m: first winter ascent, the south face, the first conquerors’ route — with K. Wielicki. (Expedition of the High Mountain Club from Gliwice; leader: A. Machnik.)
•18 VII 1986: K-2 (Chogori), 8611 m: a new route the southern ,face, Alpine style — with T. Piotrowski. (International Expedition; leader K.M. Herrligkoffer.)

 

•9 XI 1986: Manaslu East, 7922 m: first ascent of the summit (while climbing the main summit), from the north – east face — with C. Carsolio and A. Hajzer.

 

•10X1 1986: Manaslu, 8156 m: a new route, the north-south face, Alpine style — with C. Carsolio and A. Hajzer. (Expedition leader by J. Kukuczka).

 

•3 II 1987: Annapurna I, 8091 m: first winter ascent, from the north face, with the conquerors’ route— with A. Hajzer. (Expedition of the High Mountain Club from Katowice; leader: J. Kukuczka).

 

•31 VIII 1987: Yebokangal Ri, 7365 m: first ascent of the summit, a new route, from the north, Alpine style — with A. Hajzer.

 

•18 IX 1987: Shisha Pangma West, approx. 7950 m: first ascent of the summit, a new route, with the west ridge, Alpine style (while climbing the main summit) — with A. Hajzer.

 

•18 IX 1987: Shisha Pangma (Xixabangma), 8013 m: a new route, the west ridge, Alpine style — with A. Hajzer. (Expedition leaded by J. Kukuczka).

 

•13 X 1988: Annapurna I East, 8010 m: a new route, from the south, Alpine style — with A. Hajzer. (Expedition of the High Mountain Club from Katowice; leader: J. Kukuczka).

 

•24 IX 1989: Lhotse, 8511 m: an attempt to ascent with a new route, the south face; achieved altitude of approx. 8380 m. (Expedition of the Silesian Himalayan Group; leader J. Kukuczka).

 

 

 

tłum. Katarzyna Fałkowska